Most hair fixing compositions such as hair setting and hair spray compositions contain a film-forming additive or hair fixative; a solvent, usually alcohol or a mixture of alcohol and water; a fragrance and other additives; and in the case of aerosol products, a propellant. In order to be effective, a hair fixing composition needs to provide hair holding properties, high humidity curl retention, quick drying time, nonstickiness, and a clear, transparent, glossy film which is easily removable by the use of water and/or soap or shampoo. Additionally, the film forming additive must be compatible with the solvents and propellants employed and should be stable in the presence of, and unreactive with, the perfumes or other optional ingredients utilized in the hair setting or hair spray composition.
Various polymeric hair fixative systems have been utilized in an attempt to meet these stringent requirements. However, these systems which usually contain alcohols and a volatile hydrocarbon propellant, are becoming less acceptable because of consumer preference and environmental regulations that limit the amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) in hair care and other personal care products. In view of these regulations, it is foreseen that water will become a greater component in hair care formulations. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is seeking water soluble or water dispersible polymers which can be used in hair care systems that not only meet the upcoming regulations in providing low VOC content, but also provide the various properties required of such systems as noted previously.
Proteins and hydrolyzed protein have been used in the hair care industry for a number of years. Protein hydrolyzates and other protein derivatives are disclosed as conventional hair spray additives in U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,604 issued Oct. 17, 1989 to J. A. Stramek and U.S. Pat. No. 4,897,262 issued Jan. 30, 1990 to A. Nandagiri et al. Also, they have been used as conditioning agents to improve different hair properties as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,970,067 issued Nov. 13, 1990 to R. Panandiker et al.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,128,543 issued Dec. 5, 1978 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,229,429 issued Oct. 21, 1980, both to V. Johnson et al., disclose a process for preparing hydrophobically modified hydrolyzed protein, more particularly, collagen for use in anhydrous alcohol hair spray systems. Another U.S. Pat. No. 3,954,725 issued May 4, 1976 to V. Johnson et al. discloses the preparation of acyl amide modified protein hydrolyzates and their use as water-insoluble, alcohol soluble components in cosmetics such as hair sprays.
Despite the prior disclosures noted above, there still exists the need for a water soluble or water dispersible hair fixative that is useful in a range of VOC systems while providing a humidity resistant film with good holding properties that is readily removable from hair with shampoo and water.